Ramp Salt
You probably do not need to read yet another rhapsody about ramps. (RAAAMPS!) One of the first plants up in wet spring forests, they are an ephemeral onion with a unique umami taste.
Their season is fleeting, and to stretch our modest harvest we primarily use them to make ramp salt — or what Marie Viljoen calls “green MSG.” Ramps are slow-growing and their culinary popularity puts their numbers at risk. Best practice is to take a leaf off select plants in an abundant area and leave the bulbs in the ground to sustain the population. (It’s of no small annoyance that most recipe sources will advise on responsible foraging and then go on to provide recipes that use the white bulb of the plant! Come on, people! Let’s use those noggins!)
This recipe can be made with any allium for a kicky finishing salt or stock base. The tops of leeks would be great! Scallions and spring onions, too.
Most seasoned-salt recipes start with either pureeing the greens or dehydrating them. I find pureeing imparts a stronger flavor. After hit-and-miss attempts over the years, my simple method:
Weigh your washed ramp tops and puree them in a food processor or blender. (If using an alternative green like leek tops, blanch them quickly in boiling water first to preserve their color.)
Measure an equal weight of large-flake salt, like Maldon — you may not use it all.
By hand, slowly mix in the salt to taste. I prefer a ratio of about 1 part ramp to 2/3 parts salt. (Grinding the salt in the blender will make this saltier than you intend!)
Spread the mixture thinly onto parchment paper.
From here you can bake it at 100° until dry, stirring sporadically — or just leave it out on the counter, which is what I do.
Once it’s dry, break it back into powder and store in a jar.
We saw ramps at our Farmers’ Market last weekend, so you are not too late! They’re also still out there on the forest floor, now hiding amongst the rest of the spring growth.
